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IPS Asia-Pacific | IPS News in ASIA

IPS Asia-Pacific


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Street Food, the Great Equalizer

By Frances Suselo

BANGKOK, Thailand - It's 2 a.m. on a Friday night (or the wee hours of Saturday morning) in one of the 'sois' - sub streets - and groups of fashionably dressed urbanites are sitting around one of the ubiquitous street eateries here.

   They are busy enjoying the usual street food vendors' offerings: 'bakmii moo daeng' (egg noodles with pork slices), 'jok' (rice porridge), 'khao man gai' (steamed chicken with rice) and of course, 'som tam' (spicy papaya salad) that is well-known in Thailand.

   But these customers came in their best designer brand-clothes, expensive jewellery, and state-of-the-art mobile phones while their BMWs and Benzes were parked nearby. What were they doing, eating at non-airconditioned stalls, sitting on cheap plastic benches, inhaling all the pollution of Sukhumvit Road, one of Bangkok's longest and most notorious streets for traffic?

   While first-time visitors to Bangkok often find the combination of street food and Gucci wallets jarring, it is just a usual occurrence in Sukhumvit 38, one of the city's most well-known areas for street food.

   Here, the vendors feed customers until the wee hours of the morning. Many come for a late snack after a hard night out drinking and dancing in the many hip clubs and discos scattered around Sukhumvit Road. They are spoilt for choice -- anything from finger foods to steaming noodles, rice dishes and desserts. Also available are fresh fruit juices and for those who still crave more alcohol, more booze.

   "We always come here after dancing," said Pui, a university student wearing a green halter top and miniskirt. "This place stays open until late, and it's very convenient for us to eat here before we go home." Her equally hip friends nodded in agreement and added, "Plus, the food here is great."

   In other places, street food might be seen as only for the lower classes, but in this mega-city of 6 million people and especially Sukhumvit 38, the customers of street food vendors range from construction labourers to office workers, to chief executive officers and tourists who are brave enough to sample their selection amid the pollution, passing cars, traffic and the occasional begging elephants.

   Bangkok residents like to boast that Thailand has the best street food, and this is evident in the presence of the vendors everywhere in the city. Nok, 27, a 'som tam' (spicy papaya salad) seller at Sukhumvit Soi 38 explained, "Thai people are very snack-y; we like to eat anytime and anywhere, so that's why street food vendors are everywhere." Her customers are usually women ("I don't know why, but I don't usually see men craving spicy papaya salads," she elaborated), ranging from domestic workers, housewives, teenagers and 'hi-so' (Thai slang meaning 'high society') types. She claims to actually see the occasional movie stars and media personalities dining at the 'soi' sometimes.

   After the sunrise, one elevated train station away from Sukhumvit 38, Nu-Han, 29, from Nong Bua Lampphu was preparing his push cart to sell his specialty: fresh fruit slices (mangoes, watermelons, guavas, pineapples) next to the Emporium, a high-end shopping mall in Bangkok.

   In the business for one year, Nu-Han claims he chose to be a vendor because he had always wanted to have his own business. "There are many buyers in Bangkok, so vendors can get a lot of profit if they are not lazy," he said when asked why Bangkok has so many street food vendors. "Besides, it is the culture of Thai people to eat outside," he added. "Thai people therefore are already so used to seeing vendors everywhere."

   His customers range from "low-class people to the middle class and occasional foreigners". Then he proudly added, "Sometimes I also get 'hi-so' models from the Emporium buying from me." He believes that his customers like him because he is friendly, hygienic and gives reasonable prices.

   For the most part, he claims that he does not have any problems with the police or harassment. The only fee he has to pay to do his business is a 300 baht (7.5 U.S. dollar) monthly protection fee to the 'tessakit' (black uniformed officials of the Bangkok Metropolitan Authority who roam the streets to make sure that vendors comply with the city law and keep their areas clean). Compared to his usual daily profit of 500 baht (12.5 dollars), he believes that the fee is a small price to pay in order to do his business in peace.

   Nu-Han is satisfied with his work. "I earn enough profits to survive," he said. "Besides, I didn't have the chance to pursue higher education, so I have no knowledge of other careers."

   Nevertheless, he does not wish for his son to be a fruit vendor like himself. "I want my son to work for a 'hi-so' company," he declared. And he would also like to request the governor of Bangkok to designate special places for vendors like him to sell so that he would be able to fulfil his own wishes for the future, which consist of having three things: good health, a house and a car.

It's Easy Not to Notice the Pain

By Shakuntala Perera, Asia Media Forum (www.asiamediaforum.org) PHUKET, Thailand- The sea breeze is calm. The beaches are swarming with the young and the old. A year since Dec. 26, 2004 seems to have done a lot to remove the pain and the destruction.

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Warning: INSERT command denied to user 'theasian_tae'@'localhost' for table 'watchdog' query: INSERT INTO watchdog (uid, type, message, severity, link, location, referer, hostname, timestamp) VALUES (0, 'php', '<em>DELETE command denied to user &amp;#039;theasian_tae&amp;#039;@&amp;#039;localhost&amp;#039; for table &amp;#039;variable&amp;#039;\nquery: DELETE FROM variable WHERE name = &amp;#039;poormanscron_lastrun&amp;#039;</em> in <em>/home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc</em> on line <em>172</em>.', 2, '', 'http://theasianeye.net/en/node?page=6', '', '54.81.83.207', 1498584401) in /home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc on line 172

Warning: INSERT command denied to user 'theasian_tae'@'localhost' for table 'watchdog' query: INSERT INTO watchdog (uid, type, message, severity, link, location, referer, hostname, timestamp) VALUES (0, 'php', '<em>INSERT command denied to user &amp;#039;theasian_tae&amp;#039;@&amp;#039;localhost&amp;#039; for table &amp;#039;variable&amp;#039;\nquery: INSERT INTO variable (name, value) VALUES (&amp;#039;poormanscron_lastrun&amp;#039;, &amp;#039;i:1498584401;&amp;#039;)</em> in <em>/home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc</em> on line <em>172</em>.', 2, '', 'http://theasianeye.net/en/node?page=6', '', '54.81.83.207', 1498584401) in /home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc on line 172

Warning: INSERT command denied to user 'theasian_tae'@'localhost' for table 'watchdog' query: INSERT INTO watchdog (uid, type, message, severity, link, location, referer, hostname, timestamp) VALUES (0, 'php', '<em>DELETE command denied to user &amp;#039;theasian_tae&amp;#039;@&amp;#039;localhost&amp;#039; for table &amp;#039;cache&amp;#039;\nquery: DELETE FROM cache WHERE cid = &amp;#039;variables&amp;#039;</em> in <em>/home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc</em> on line <em>172</em>.', 2, '', 'http://theasianeye.net/en/node?page=6', '', '54.81.83.207', 1498584401) in /home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc on line 172

Warning: INSERT command denied to user 'theasian_tae'@'localhost' for table 'watchdog' query: INSERT INTO watchdog (uid, type, message, severity, link, location, referer, hostname, timestamp) VALUES (0, 'php', '<em>DELETE command denied to user &amp;#039;theasian_tae&amp;#039;@&amp;#039;localhost&amp;#039; for table &amp;#039;variable&amp;#039;\nquery: DELETE FROM variable WHERE name = &amp;#039;cron_last&amp;#039;</em> in <em>/home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc</em> on line <em>172</em>.', 2, '', 'http://theasianeye.net/en/node?page=6', '', '54.81.83.207', 1498584401) in /home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc on line 172

Warning: INSERT command denied to user 'theasian_tae'@'localhost' for table 'watchdog' query: INSERT INTO watchdog (uid, type, message, severity, link, location, referer, hostname, timestamp) VALUES (0, 'php', '<em>INSERT command denied to user &amp;#039;theasian_tae&amp;#039;@&amp;#039;localhost&amp;#039; for table &amp;#039;variable&amp;#039;\nquery: INSERT INTO variable (name, value) VALUES (&amp;#039;cron_last&amp;#039;, &amp;#039;i:1498584401;&amp;#039;)</em> in <em>/home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc</em> on line <em>172</em>.', 2, '', 'http://theasianeye.net/en/node?page=6', '', '54.81.83.207', 1498584401) in /home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc on line 172

Warning: INSERT command denied to user 'theasian_tae'@'localhost' for table 'watchdog' query: INSERT INTO watchdog (uid, type, message, severity, link, location, referer, hostname, timestamp) VALUES (0, 'php', '<em>DELETE command denied to user &amp;#039;theasian_tae&amp;#039;@&amp;#039;localhost&amp;#039; for table &amp;#039;cache&amp;#039;\nquery: DELETE FROM cache WHERE cid = &amp;#039;variables&amp;#039;</em> in <em>/home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc</em> on line <em>172</em>.', 2, '', 'http://theasianeye.net/en/node?page=6', '', '54.81.83.207', 1498584401) in /home/theasian/public_html/includes/database.mysql.inc on line 172